Part THREE: Making the Grade (totally cool)

So now I have all the samples, but in only one size.  We need 9 more sizes to be able to sell to all the girls between the ages of 2 and 12, so we have to start "grading."  This is an amazing process.  First, the pattern is "digitized."  It sounds like it's going through some kind of time machine, but actually, it's just this little device that looks like a toy calculator/compass.

The digitizer sends all the measurements on each point of the pattern to a computer.  The computer connects all the points together to form the pattern piece on the screen.  Once all the pieces are recorded and uploaded, we can start figuring out all the sizes.

We have to know how much bigger a size 12 is than our BASE size 7.  And how much smaller a size 2 is from a size 7.  And from there we can "grade" what all the other sizes should look like.  All the little lines around the pattern pieces are showing all the different sizes.  After we figure this out, it's a good idea to actually make some more samples just to be sure.   Sometimes we need to go back to the computer pattern and adjust the measurements. 

Once we decide that every size is going to fit perfectly.  We make a "marker."  This is the stage when all the pattern pieces for EVERY SIZE are actually printed on a huge, long, piece of paper.  Each color/column contains all the components necessary to make one dress.   The bodices and sleeves are shown below.

These are the skirts:

The grader is the person who builds the markers above.  It's like the game Tetris.  The goal is to put the pieces together in a way that will use the least amount of fabric possible.  We don't want a lot of waste (black space).  At TwirlyGirl, we use the waste fabric for the ribbons that we wrap our retail orders in.   We also use remnant fabric as wrapping, no paper or plastic bags.  We strive to be as eco-friendly as possible.

OK, now we can take this marker to the cutting house.  But wait, we need to decide what kind of fabric we're going to use!
 

Part FOUR:  Picking Out Fabrics:  My kind of candy store
Next post: June 2nd

 

Leave your questions or comments below.  We LOVE your feedback.  Visit TwirlyGirlShop.com or email us at 

twirlygirlshop@gmail.com 

Thanks so much for being a part of the journey!
Cynthia

BeHinD the SeAmS: Part TWO Sketches & Samples, not so simple

So what do I do once I have the new design ideas swimming in head?
Well, I have to actually stop dreaming about them and create! In December 2009, I came up with the following 6 new designs for the next season:

4 new dresses
1 tank top
1 pair of new shorts we are calling UnderTwirls (little shorts for high-flyin' twirlin')
1 new Sugar Swee-Tee design

First, I make rough sketches of how I want it to look. Then I take those sketches to my pattern maker, Aldaberto.  (He has 6 little dogs that greet me).  His job is to translate my ideas into a workable pattern that the sewers can follow.

Next, we make a sample to see how the design works in real life. My daughter, Lola, is a perfect size 7. Sizing is SO important and is probably the hardest part of this whole process. If Lola isn't comfortable in what she's wearing then no one else will be either.   No itchy seams, comfy, not too tight, soft soft soft, and the fabric has to flow and move.

Unfortunately, patterns seldom come out perfect the first time.  It needs to be shorter -- so we make another sample.  Then it needs to be tighter --  so we make another sample.  When we finally get the sample to hang just right, we can create a formal pattern of the new design. Yay!

FYI: Those big holes in the paper are made with a "Rabbit Ear Punch".  This makes the pattern easier to take on and off a special hook without ripping.

Here's the cool tool that looks like a rabbit ear. 

This one process can often take 3 months! And this is just to make a size 7.  From here, we have to scale the sample up or down to make the nine other sizes.  This process is called Grading. 
Stayed tuned for:

Part THREE: Making the Grade (it's totally cool)
Next post: May 30th

Leave your questions and comments below.  We LOVE your feedback.  You can also follow us on FaceBook.  Or email TwirlyGirlShop@gmail.com

Thanks for being a part of the journey,
Cynthia 


TwirlyGirlShop.com

BeHinD the SeAmS - Part ONE: TwirlyGirl Headquarters

I thought it might be fun to take you behind the scenes and show you how every TwirlyGirl item comes to life. The process has a lot of steps but it’s totally fun and you’ll even get to be a part of it. I'm right in the middle of creating new styles for the upcoming season. Even as you are r-e-a-d-i-n-g this, our clothing is being sewn (except if it's nighttime). And here's the super cool part, YOU will get the chance to "name" the new styles before we add them to the website! 

    So follow me every week as I take you on this Twirly adventure - it will be all wrapped up around the middle of June.    Don't be shy, ask questions, tell me what you think - I LOVE your feedback!  You can also follow TwirlyGirl on Facebook

Part ONE:  TwirlyGirl Headquarters

Everything begins here.

     I love working here!  It's bright and colorful which makes it a very happy place for creating.  We are on the 10th floor and have been adopted by a few, daredevil pigeons. Heather and I (see who Heather is by clicking her name) usually jump out of our skin when they fly really close to the windows.    

     Of course, creating isn't just about "thinking", it's about being "inspired".  What inspires me is imagining how to turn an ordinary thing into an EXTRAordinary thing.  That's the fun and exciting part for me.  That's how I came up with 6 new designs for this next season.  They are all styles that I feel I can do my own special way.  

    OK, I have the designs swimming in my head, what do I do next?  I'll let you know in Part TWO of BeHinD the SeAmS - Sketchs & Samples: not so Simple.


Twirly Tidbit:
What kinds of things do you do that are not like anybody else?  Do eat toast a certain way - crust off/on - from the inside out?  How do you hold your pencil?  Do you draw from a picture in your head or what you are seeing with your eyes?   It's cool to notice how unique each of us really is - even if we are all doing the same thing - we don't all do it the same way.  Even the pigeons flying outside our 10th story window have their own way of struttin' their stuff.


Leave your questions & comments below. Or email us at twirlygirlshop@gmail.com

Thanks for being a part of the journey,

Cynthia 

TwirlyGirlShop.com

TwirlyGirl is mentioned on Earnshaw's FB page. The editor's daughter is having a twirly Sunday. Hope you are too! http://ping.fm/AHXDm?pid=3928588&id=100029697514