BeHinD the SeAmS: Part TWO Sketches & Samples, not so simple

So what do I do once I have the new design ideas swimming in head?
Well, I have to actually stop dreaming about them and create! In December 2009, I came up with the following 6 new designs for the next season:

4 new dresses
1 tank top
1 pair of new shorts we are calling UnderTwirls (little shorts for high-flyin' twirlin')
1 new Sugar Swee-Tee design

First, I make rough sketches of how I want it to look. Then I take those sketches to my pattern maker, Aldaberto.  (He has 6 little dogs that greet me).  His job is to translate my ideas into a workable pattern that the sewers can follow.

Next, we make a sample to see how the design works in real life. My daughter, Lola, is a perfect size 7. Sizing is SO important and is probably the hardest part of this whole process. If Lola isn't comfortable in what she's wearing then no one else will be either.   No itchy seams, comfy, not too tight, soft soft soft, and the fabric has to flow and move.

Unfortunately, patterns seldom come out perfect the first time.  It needs to be shorter -- so we make another sample.  Then it needs to be tighter --  so we make another sample.  When we finally get the sample to hang just right, we can create a formal pattern of the new design. Yay!

FYI: Those big holes in the paper are made with a "Rabbit Ear Punch".  This makes the pattern easier to take on and off a special hook without ripping.

Here's the cool tool that looks like a rabbit ear. 

This one process can often take 3 months! And this is just to make a size 7.  From here, we have to scale the sample up or down to make the nine other sizes.  This process is called Grading. 
Stayed tuned for:

Part THREE: Making the Grade (it's totally cool)
Next post: May 30th

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Thanks for being a part of the journey,
Cynthia 


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