So now I have all the samples, but in only one size. We need 9 more sizes to be able to sell to all the girls between the ages of 2 and 12, so we have to start "grading." This is an amazing process. First, the pattern is "digitized." It sounds like it's going through some kind of time machine, but actually, it's just this little device that looks like a toy calculator/compass.
The digitizer sends all the measurements on each point of the pattern to a computer. The computer connects all the points together to form the pattern piece on the screen. Once all the pieces are recorded and uploaded, we can start figuring out all the sizes.
We have to know how much bigger a size 12 is than our BASE size 7. And how much smaller a size 2 is from a size 7. And from there we can "grade" what all the other sizes should look like. All the little lines around the pattern pieces are showing all the different sizes. After we figure this out, it's a good idea to actually make some more samples just to be sure. Sometimes we need to go back to the computer pattern and adjust the measurements.
Once we decide that every size is going to fit perfectly. We make a "marker." This is the stage when all the pattern pieces for EVERY SIZE are actually printed on a huge, long, piece of paper. Each color/column contains all the components necessary to make one dress. The bodices and sleeves are shown below.
These are the skirts:
The grader is the person who builds the markers above. It's like the game Tetris. The goal is to put the pieces together in a way that will use the least amount of fabric possible. We don't want a lot of waste (black space). At TwirlyGirl, we use the waste fabric for the ribbons that we wrap our retail orders in. We also use remnant fabric as wrapping, no paper or plastic bags. We strive to be as eco-friendly as possible.
OK, now we can take this marker to the cutting house. But wait, we need to decide what kind of fabric we're going to use!
Part FOUR: Picking Out Fabrics: My kind of candy store
Next post: June 2nd
Next post: June 2nd
Thanks so much for being a part of the journey!
Cynthia
Cynthia
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